The Bangkok Taxi: An Overview

The taxis in Bangkok are different from taxis that I've been in anywhere else in the world. They lack the uniform sterility of European taxis, and the predictable dinginess of New York taxis, and the white-knuckle terror that often accompanies Mexican taxis. For starters, taxis in Bangkok are usually pink--something that makes me immeasurably happy. You also never quite know what to expect of the interior when you get in one. By that, I don't mean in terms of the general cleanliness--I've actually never been in cleaner taxis than those in Bangkok. I mean the interesting "pieces of flair" that each taxi contains.

Dashboards are frequently transformed into miniature altars inviting protection and prosperity. There is usually at least one tiny Buddha, Ganesha, or fasting monk statue, all of which are generally encased in little plastic domes. I have seen dashboards with as many as five or six of these--virtual plastic gardens of sacred symbols. These little statues are generally adorned with small plastic garlands, and very often are surrounded by smaller amulets that have been stuck to the dashboard with glue that oozes out from under them on hot days. Lately I've also been seeing quite a few statues of a female (and she is generally standing, which does obstruct the windshield view quite a bit!). I am tremendously curious about her. I assume that she is a goddess (and her clothing looks a bit more Indian than Thai), but I'm not completely certain. I will have to find out about her from the driver the next time I see her in a taxi :).

The rearview mirror is another space for decoration. They are generally dripping with long, beaded chains that culminate in big, thick amulets at the bottom. These amulets also contain Buddhas and Ganeshas and monks. Some drivers hang prayer beads made from wood and jade and even rose quartz. There are jasmine garlands wrapped around some mirrors that make the inside of the taxi thick with their scent. Sometimes there are prayer flags and pictures of the Buddha under a bodhi tree and even framed pictures of the King. I have seen a string of gold paper cranes, their wings trembling slightly with the jolts of traffic and flapping in the musty stream of air conditioning. Some mirrors are so thick with the driver's small treasures that an entire section of windshield is basically rendered useless. The beads and amulets swing and collide and click together quietly as the taxi moves along--a nervous, comforting tempo like an irregular pulse running through veins hardened with devotion. Most taxis also have designs on the ceiling above the driver's head, which have been made out of a sacred powder used by monks during blessings. Some drivers settle for three dots just behind the visor, while others have intricate, curvy, flame-like stripes reaching halfway across the ceiling.

The upholstery also varies from taxi to taxi. Sometimes it's a worn, black vinyl. Sometimes it's a shiny, black vinyl with pink piping around the edges. One driver even pulled pink wife beaters over the driver's seat and the front passenger's seat to be both protective to the seats and consistent with the general taxi color scheme. My absolute favorite interior had baby pink seats that were covered in some sort of lace, which had been painstakingly lacquered to the seats. I kid you not. It was like someone had taken your grandmother's curtains and made taxi seats out of them. I have yet to see this taxi again and I probably never will. BUT, mark my words, I will continue searching.......

Most taxis here smell like Tiger Balm. Tiger Balm is not only the most miraculous balm in the entire world, but it also comes in inhaler form that people will frequently shove up their nostrils to ward off the pollution-induced clogs that happen all the time here. Every taxi therefore has a twinge of menthol and eucalyptus to it. In some, it is almost imperceptible. In others, my eyes water and my sinuses are purged. Taxis also smell like jasmine and cigarettes and B.O. and spilled fish sauce and green tea and, well, flatulence.

Sometimes the radio is playing. Some drivers listen to music, but more often than not they will listen to talk shows, complete with the melodic repetition of the radio host saying "ka, ka" (if it's a woman, and "kap, kap" if it's a man) over and over again--"yes, yes"--to show that she is listening to the caller. Drivers will often accommodate foreigners by putting on "farang music." If you receive a phone call while riding in a taxi, the driver will turn down the radio. Every single time.

Taxis here are as unique, varied, detailed, and fascinating as the people driving them, and the streets through which they travel.